Monday 19 May 2014

A 'Legenderry' Stay in the Maiden City

One of my favourite places in Derry is the Craft Village on Shipquay Street. With its brightly coloured doors, metal railings, stone walls and quirky shops scattered across a courtyard, I have been meaning to pay it a visit for a long time. After researching the City for a musical I was working on, I was delighted to make a trip there in late Spring to see what the City of Culture has to offer one year on. 

A short break in Derry will fill you up from the moment you drive over the majestic bridges that lead to the cobbled streets within the city walls. A sense of nostalgia, a lightness in the air and an overwhelming feeling of hope lies here in the town that has witnessed so much trouble but which is now standing tall and proudly flying the flag for culture, history, music, shopping - and most of all, welcoming and friendly people whose pride in the City is tangible when they talk.

We arrived and immediately checked out the shopping at the Foyleside Centre, outside of which we met our tour guide Sorcha who was well versed in the history of the City as she led a small group of us on to the walls as part of the famous Martin McCrossan Tours. Sorcha told us how and why the walls were built, the background of St Columb’s Cathedral, the formation of The Apprentice Boys and the more recent turbulence of Bloody Sunday and its horrible aftermath. As we looked out onto the Bogside I felt shivers with being so close to the scene of such tragedy and yet a great relief that we have moved forward to much more positive times.

There is so much more to Derry’s history than The Troubles of course and we later learned at the Guild Hall of the city’s links to London and how the vibrancy of its people now are reflected in making an old tale into a modern day attraction for sightseers and visitors from all over the world.

Full of new knowledge and some fascinating facts, we checked in to the Tower Hotel (which is the only hotel located within the City walls) where we were shown to the luxury of the Eleanor suite. Our room was circular in shape and we were greeted with lots of personal touches including two swans on the bed –well, towels shaped as swans! It was a huge room with a separate living area and dining table and the staff members were bubbly and enthusiastic. Like all Derry folk, they were keen to tell us all that is great about the city including the best places to eat and drink and where to sample the best of the City nightlife.

We dined that evening at Browns in Town – a high end, a la carte restaurant which was buzzing with parties of all sizes and a mouth watering menu which is managed under the guidance of well known chef (he of Masterchef and the voice of Lidl fame) Ian Orr.  Jim chose scallops to start while I went for the delicious seafood chowder and we followed with rib eye steak (for me) and Jim enjoyed a seabass dish which was polished off with a medley of desserts and tea for two. Browns in Town is a place that makes you feel special from the moment you enter the doors until the moment you leave.

After dinner we popped into Peadar O’Donnell’s bar which was well and truly buzzing with Saturday night revellers. The bar is famous for live Irish traditional music and was a big attraction during the Fleadh so it was good to see the atmosphere is well and truly alive almost one year on. Another hotspot is Sandinos on Water Street which is more modern in style but equally atmospheric with walls donned with Che Guevara and a trendy ‘non conformist’ setting.

We finished our stay in Derry the following day after a magnificent breakfast at the Tower Hotel with a walk on the Peace Bridge which is guaranteed to blow off the cobwebs after a city night out! With its unique winding shape, metal pedestrian structure and buskers along the route of your walk, it is a special experience and a great photo opportunity! We also popped into the Craft Village where we viewed the beautiful knitwear presented by Maggy McCartney and squeezed in a quick visit to Benone Beach – one of our favourite places – on the way home...

For great food, craft, music and culture Derry is ideal for a short break on your doorstep. The dark clouds have lifted and the famous ‘Londonderry air’ is filled with a new energy, a vibe of vitality, new beginnings and genuine vibrancy. Go check it out for yourself – they don’t call it ‘legenderry’ for nothing!










FACTBOX
Emma & Jim’s trip was organised courtesy of the Northern Ireland Tourist Board as part of their Spring Campaign.  For more information on Northern Ireland visit discovernorthernireland.com

Accommodation:
Tower Hotel, City of Derry
The Tower Hotel is the perfect base to explore the city and with great views and is also on the doorstep of the many bars, restaurants and tourist attractions. The hotel’s Walls Restaurant is the perfect setting overlooking the famous City Walls and the new Lyric Bar and Grill showcases the city’s musical history in pictures which are adorned on the walls.
T: 028 7137 1000  W: www.towerhotelderry.com

Attractions:       
Walking Tour with Martin McCrossan
With over fifty natural and built attractions in the region, such as Derry’s Walls, The Bogside, The Peoples Gallery (Murals) The Bloody Sunday Story, The History of the Apprentice Boys, The Marching Season Traditions, you will be sure there is something to see.

T: 028 7127 1996 / 0771 293 7997  W: www.derrycitytours.com

Sandino’s Cafe Bar
Sandino’s is a popular major live music venue in the city ranging from traditional through to jazz and world music as well as some of the best DJ’s in town. Open 7 days a week, the venue is a popular choice for artists, musicians, chess players and visiting students.

T: 028 7130 9297  W: www.sandinos.com
Guildhall Tour
The Guildhall was originally built in 1887 by The Honourable The Irish Society, fashioned in neo gothic style it is one of the most striking buildings in the northwest. Housed in the Guildhall are some of the finest examples of stain-glass windows in the whole of Great Britain. Decorated with Drumfrese sandstone, marble, oak panelling and ornate ceilings, the Guildhall is the premier tourist attraction in Derry.


Peadar O’Donnell
Peadar’s is known throughout the world and is a must visit location for the many tourists that flock to Derry in ever increasing numbers. They are famous for, among other things, our live music which is largely organised but has regular impromptu sessions from either local musicians or visiting performers.
T: 028 7126 7295 W: www.peadars.com

Restaurant:
Browns in Town
Browns in Town is the sister restaurant to Browns Restaurant and Champagne Lounge also in the city, offering a fine dining experience with a continued high standard of excellent food, genuine hospitality and great service.
T: 028 7136 2889 W: www.brownsrestaurant.com